It’s hardly a secret that the Lake District is both one of the UK’s most idyllic spots for a walk and a top foodie destination. As well as its large bodies of water lying below towering fells, it boasts countless high-end restaurants, cosy countryside pubs and amazing produce from across the region.
However, despite having lived most of my adult life in the north of England, I’d only once made the trip to Windermere for a day trip on the train and never ventured any further into the national park. To put this right, we booked ourselves a couple of days away to celebrate Kate’s birthday with the promise of some incredible eating and rambles to match. We even lucked out with the weather, managing to pick the sunniest weekend of the year to date!
Friday: Tasty burritos and waterside pints
Things did get off to a slightly rocky start with huge delays on the road out of Manchester. So while we had planned to have a full Good Friday in Ambleside, we ended up delaying our trip a little. We still made the most of the sun by taking a detour for a hike up a very busy Rivington Pike, keeping one eye on Google Maps to decide on the best time to properly set off.
When we did eventually get to the national park, we were greeted by some glorious green hills and the glistening waters of Lake Windermere. Having dropped off bags at the lovely Ambleside Townhouse B&B, our first priority was to grab something quick to eat so that we could get down by the lake.
We chanced upon the tiny Tacos Del Sol, down a backstreet just off the main thoroughfare of the town. Run by Mexico City native Marisol and husband Chris, they serve authentic tacos, burritos and quesadillas made to family recipes. They’ve caused quite the stir in the town since opening, regularly selling out. We were just in time – they’d been busy this bank holiday Friday and only had a few portions of each filling left. We went for a burrito apiece, one with chicken, the other some succulent beef (which slightly edged it for me). The tortillas were loaded with homemade salsas, crisp lettuce, rice, and beans and oozed with Mexican cheese. The wraps were washed down with a crisp pale ale from Lakeland brewers Fell as recommended by Chris.
Appetites suitably sated, we headed to make the most of the evening sun with a pint at the YHA Ambleside. Despite being a youth hostel bar, this has to be one of the best spots in the town for a beer with its location right next to the still water. We took a table right on the lake’s edge with a crisp, cold Dortmunder and were able to watch the sun slowly dip behind the hills. Bliss!
Saturday: Long walks, Italian/Cumbrian treats and fine dining
On Saturday morning we each enjoyed a tasty full breakfast at the B&B before setting off on a trail around Loughrigg Fell.
We followed this AllTrails route, which begins by taking you up a steep paved road to a bridleway. Once it levels out, you’re offered some glorious views of Loughrigg Tarn, a small body of water to the south.
Following the path along the hill’s edge to the far side, we then took a slight detour to carry on to the outskirts of Elterwater, where you can find Lanty Slee’s Saloon Bar.
Named after a notorious 19th Century Lake District farmer and moonshine producer, the bar was opened last year and showcases a range of spirits reproduced to the original Lanty’s recipes. Given it was lunchtime and fearing a very wobbly onward journey, we instead opted for a pint of Budvar on the sunny front terrace.
Thirsts quenched, we headed inside to indulge in one of their meat and cheese boards. We’re presented with a very well-appointed wooden slab, something of a continentally-tinged Cumbrian ploughmans. As well as pickled onions, piccalilli, smoked cheddar, thick cut cooked ham, and mini gherkins, we have two salamis, cambozola blue brie, pesto, slow roast tomatoes, stuffed peppers, pepperoncini, olives and hummus. Seriously, they’d thrown half a deli counter at this board.
Full of meat and cheese, we took on the main event of our walk, scrambling up to the summit of the fell. Although it’s hard work after all that eating, it’s well worth it as the view over Grasmere from the hilltop is truly breathtaking.
We lingered a while to drink it in, before making the descent and journeying back around the north side towards Ambleside. We then made a quick stop off at The Badger Inn on the way for a crisp Staropramen in the early April sun. Seems like Czech lager is having a moment in the Lakes!
After an hour or so back at the hotel to freshen up, it’s time for the main foodie event of the weekend. Rothay Manor is a boutique hotel on the edge of Ambleside, where the dining experience is headed up by talented scouse chef Dan McGeorge. McGeorge won the champion of champions on Great British Menu in 2021 for his dessert course and has a penchant for combining Lakeland produce with Asian flavours. Being avid GBM viewers, I was quick off the mark in booking a table when planning our trip.
On arrival at the restaurant, we are seated for cocktails and a peruse of the menu in the bar area. We choose our dishes from a small set of starters, mains and desserts, with the promise of canapes, an amuse bouche, breads and a pre-dessert to accompany them. Before all that though, we are presented with a snack of sesame crackers and a cod roe dip, which we nibble upon while making our choices. Once led through to the dining room, it’s not long before our succession of canapes arrive in the form of a cheese and truffle crumpet, a carrot ‘taco’ filled with seatrout tartar, housemade breads and butters and a soup. A seriously impressive start.
Perhaps the highlight of the meal for me, the ‘Potato’ starter elevates a single charlotte potato to dizzying new heights with seaweed, allium flowers and a rich, unctuous sauce with slow-cooked egg yolk. Almost as good was the ‘Scallop’ dish, the delicate shellfish sliced and served with pickled turnip discs, dill and a crystal clear broth.
I am delighted by the ‘Duck’ main course, a perfectly pink piece of breast meat with crispy skin, on a plate dotted with blackberries, adorned with a ribbon of pickled beetroot and then slathered in a rich red wine jus. Kate by contrast is a little disappointed by the hake with pork dashi and hispi cabbage. It’s not bad by any means, but doesn’t quite live up to the other dishes. She rues the decision not to go for the dexter beef sirloin wafted past us a number of times on its way towards other tables.
After a delicate and refreshing pre-dessert of sour-sweet sorbet with a granita and crumb, it’s time for us both to tuck into the much-contrasting ‘Chocolate’ dessert. Artfully presented along one edge of the plate, we receive an array of chocolatey, caramelly delights – mousse, honeycomb, thick salted caramel, an ice cream and curiously, some slithers of Jerusalem artichoke. While I wasn’t entirely sold on the latter, it was a pretty spectacular end to the evening nonetheless.
Sunday: Keswick, Derwentwater and fish and chips
By Sunday morning, temperatures had dropped, putting an end to our original plan of renting a kayak to paddle out on Derwentwater. We did still head up to Keswick in any case, which involved an incredibly scenic drive along a road recently voted the best in the UK. After a stop-off for coffee, we headed down for a walk by the lakeside. Despite the clouds in the sky and the crowds, it was still pretty idyllic down by the water’s edge and we were able to spot a number of blue tits and robins in the trees.
A hearty lunch came courtesy of Kingfisher Fish and Chips. The batter is crisp and chips are plentiful – exactly what we’d hoped for. It provided me with the fuel required to take Kate on in a game of pitch and putt to end our trip. Having won by two strokes, it had obviously done the trick.
There was just enough time to pick up a couple of beautifully rich ice creams from Casa Bella Gelato to enjoy on the way home, where we’re left to reminisce on a weekend of beautiful views and delicious treats. Now we’ve tasted the Lake District, we’ll be sure to rush back.
SOUNDS TASTY 